* This page is a constant work in progress as of April 2018 *
2007 Cargo Freightliner Sprinter
Purchased in April 2018 w/ 144k miles
Running Costs Sheet
We are amateur builders having never done a thing like this in our lives.
(In high school I once built a small box that ended up not fitting the contents it was made for)
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Jerred & Natalie
- Clean & Prep
- Rust Maintenance and Prevention
- Sound Deaden
- Walls and Roof
Honestly, although she needed a lil' fixing. She was a clean one. Too clean actually lol. The seller put a ton of Armor All all over her, I was wiping it off my hands for weeks - still am! So we used a citrus degreaser to clean her up and get it off on the dash/fillin's and also for under the stock flooring. Turns out Sprinters are really tall and that Natalie and I - are not. So we got to borrow a fellow Sprinter-Driver's awesome Little Giant Ladder.
We are currently (4/24/18) waiting on this product to arrive and after/during application we'll update this page.
I'm using this detailed post on the Sprinter-Source forums as reference.
This made all the difference. We used small squares, simply cutting the sheets into quarters, and then put a square on any panel that sounded noisy. We'd just tap against the metal and, if it sounded loud, applied some. After we had all the big panels weighted we took it for a drive and it was AWESOME. The NVC3 Sprinter's are already a lot quieter but it was seriously night and day. We found some sneaky rattling coming from the sliding door's top-right hole-guy and then added a small square to each of the rear tire wells. Very nice!
The Noico is pretty heavy and while we aren't counting ounces like we do when backpacking, it all counts. At times I noticed myself wanting to use bigger pieces but I figure between the Noico, rigid foam, spray foam and eventually wood paneling - we should be pretty good.
Would I get the Metal Roller again? I think so, it was pretty cheap, fits in small spaces and has a nice weight to it. If you have something lying around - definitely try that first.
Foamular 150 1" R-5 for flooring and any narrow areas
Foamular 150 1-1/2" R-7.5 for ceilings
Foamular 250 2" R-10 for windows and most upper and lower side compartments
3M Thinsulate SM600L for any of the tough to get spots
Jigsaw for the cuttins
Great Stuff Gaps and Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant as adhesive, insulator and gap filler
Great Stuff Big Gap Filler for the same but bigger
3M Spray Adhesive Spray 90 for when things need stickin'
And we've arrived to possibly the hottest topic of for debate with opinions varying as wide as our planned adventures with Bonnie.
You may have noticed, we skipped the reflectix that a lot of the Sprinter-YouTuber community seems to favor. We spoke with some friends that do construction work in the PNW and, anecdotally, they all used to use the stuff 20 years ago but now have all opted out for various reasons that seemed to be 'moisture-barrier' related challenging me to, "give it a shot and then peel it back in 10 years and let me know what you find."
So, this is what we did and we'll be sure to let you know how it goes as we run the trial of fire.
Measure and cut all pieces to fit. Use gap filler as adhesive and filler
One. Some users report squeaking from their rigid foam board installation. To circumvent, you can use the Gap Filler as your adhesive, it works really well.
Two. Always close the lid after use and don't take it off unless you're done with it - this stuff will jam up on you.
Three. The gap filler can and will bend your sheet metal if you put too much in a tight space with no where to go.
Back to the Future?
I'm not entirely sure I needed the Spray 90 since we ended up using the Great Stuff as adhesive. We definitely used it a few times but only because I broke or cut some foam I shouldn't have. It did help me on the ceiling foam install since it helped keep the boards in place while the foam set but, I think there could be work around for that.